Post by dennisp on Aug 8, 2009 17:34:40 GMT 8
Potted History
The Tornado was designed as a low-level supersonic ground attack bomber, capable of taking off and landing in short distances. This requires good high-speed and low-speed flying characteristics. In general, an aircraft which is designed to fly at high speeds usually has poor low-speed characteristics. In order to achieve the desired high-speed performance, an aircraft has a highly swept or ‘delta’ wing platform. However, these wing designs are very inefficient at low speeds where un-swept wing plan-forms are required. In order for an aircraft to be operated efficiently at both high and low speeds, is a desirable feature; this was incorporated into the Tornado design.
When the wings are swept back, the Tornado IDS increases its high-speed low-level capability by reducing drag. When sweeping, the wings partially slide into the fuselage, reducing the exposed wing area. This gives the aircraft a low gust response in turbulent low-level winds. This not only makes flight much more comfortable for the aircrew but also makes the aircraft a more stable platform from which to aim and deliver unguided weapons at low level.
The aircraft was designed to be land-based and operate from large airfields that were considered to be vulnerable to aerial attack. Therefore, during the development of the aircraft, short field landing capability was considered essential in order to enable the aircraft to operate from short strips on potentially damaged runways and taxiways. With the wings swept fully forwards the Tornado IDS generates greater lift because of the increased exposed wing area and the utility of full-span flaps and slats. This gives greater lift at lower speeds, reducing the minimum landing speed required and therefore giving shorter landing distances. Thrust reversers are also fitted to help in this respect, the Saab Viggen being the only other fighter aircraft to include this feature. The reversers contribute to the appearance of soot on the fin surface.
The cockpit is of conventional design with a centre stick and left hand throttles. In general, when the pilot wants to fly at low speed, a cockpit selection lever is used to sweep the wings forward. This maximises lift. When flying faster the wings are swept further back. In flight the Tornado GR4 uses three sweep angles - 25, 45 and 67 degrees, with a corresponding speed range appropriate for each angle. Sweep may also change automatically to accommodate different store configurations, as these directly affect lift and drag characteristics.
The aircraft was first delivered to the RAF in 1979 so the aircraft is a 30 year old plus design..! and still in service.
Performance
Maximum speed: Mach 2.34 (2,417.6 km/h, 1,511 mph)
Range: 1,390 km (870 mi) typical combat
Ferry range: 3,890 km (2,417 mi) with four external drop tanks
Service ceiling: 15,240 m (50,000 ft)
Rate of climb: 76.7 m/s (15,100 ft/min)
Thrust/weight: 0.55
Not bad for an oldie.....!!
I make no apologies but I am a lover of the Tornado and other RAF jets, it is a small model with a span of 27.5” so my first thoughts were to build it as a static model... but as you would expect once I had unboxed the model my thoughts changed to make it fly (even if my aging eyes will not see it).
For those who are not familiar with this aircraft here are a couple of video clips, showing what the aircraft does best .... low level fast flying.
Tornado belting over the North Sea somewhere..?
www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_8unmkdRsc&feature=fvw
Tornado GR4 Low flying
www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbdnLn5-99s&feature=related
Tornado gr4 low level Andrew McEwen
www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBI05oIeiWg&feature=related
Tornado GR4 in action
www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVyggJY3pNA&feature=related
RAF video
www.youtube.com/watch?v=nj0IUkd8fyQ&feature=related
So now it is time to build the model.....
First it is very important with this model to read the instruction book very carefully I say this, as if you build it as per the instructions your receiver will be buried inside the fuselage for life. It also means if you have the wires in the receiver incorrect there will be nothing that you can do about it, and of course if it is a 2.4GHz receiver you will not be able to re-link / bind it either. I tried to fit the Futuba 7 channel 2.4GHz receiver in the correct place and again with the servo cables in place there is just not enough room in the slot provided.
It all seems rather strange as the front of the model has a nice place to locate the receiver, yes you will need some extension leads (3) but at least the receiver can be accessed, so I shall be going for this location and there is plenty of room to move the Li-Po pack towards the rear to get the Cg correct.
With these small problems out of the way it now possible to move along and follow the instructions from Mr. Kyosho..., so going back to step # 1 we need to fit the fan to the motor. As this will be inaccessible once the model is finished you really need to use a 8mm socket driver on the nut to ensure a firm grip of the fan to the motor.
Step # 2, is the “welding” ....? of the ESC battery extension lead
Step # 3, I did not perform as I did not want my 2.4GHz receiver buried inside the model so we can move along to step #4, but now is a good time to fit all the extension leads, I used 300mm leads x 3.
Although the foam moulding is very good the mould release spikes should be removed from the intake ducts, so a gentle rub with fine sandpaper will do the job nicely, the upper duct has been cleaned up and the lower is the original finish.
So now we are ready for step # 4, a nice easy job of gluing the stabs to the fuselage, make sure they fit tight to the fuselage, they should angle downwards as well.
Step # 5, is where the fun begins, you will need to enlarge the cable slot so that it will take the three servo wires as well as the three motor wires
And the real tricky part comes next which is fitting the fan assembly to the top fuselage, time is required to ensure this fits without any force or stress, especially as it is difficult to get the wires from the motor and servo’s in that small groove. After a couple of dry runs everything was set up OK and it was time to make the join permanent, I would suggest that you use 30 minute Epoxy as it gives you more time to ensure everything is as it should be and fits nicely. Note the ESC sits in the cable slot and is retained by double sided tape.
Step # 6, a nice task gluing the rest of the fuselage bottom in place, again use 30 minutes Epoxy and test fit to ensure all is fine before gluing. Once the main part is glued in place the small blanking plug can be fitted which gives a cheater hole to the fan on each side of the fuselage.
Step # 7, time to fit the wings it all looks so simple from the instruction book, but required some thought as to how to find the hinge hole in the wing once it is inserted in the fuselage slot. After playing hunt the hole for a period of time I reverted to the obvious solution, lay the other wing on top of the one that is being installed with a small screwdriver through the hinge hole, now move the fitted wing to the same position as the top wing and bingo the screwdriver pops straight through. Remove the top wing and the screwdriver and insert the screw and the job is done for the first side. For the other side insert the wing and set location in / out and back and forward as the fitted wing and the hole will be there.
With the two wings fitted we need to locate the sweep back holes, using the same method as before but this time a pin drill, put the pin drill in the sweep hole and move the wing slowly until the drill drops. Mark the wing with a fine marker pen at the fuselage position so you can re-find it without using the pin drill again, and repeat this for all three holes in both wings.
The next picture shows one wing at full sweep back and the other in the slow flight position (OK I know that is my setting....!)
Steps # 8 and 9 are normal servo horn fitting and set up, so now is the time to check all is well and the control surfaces are moving in the correct directions for the stick movements, it should now be very apparent why I did not want to bury the receiver as if it cables are in the wrong channels you are stuck and remember the transmitter wing type is delta or flying wing so you can get things wrong (well I always seem to manage this).
I decided to fit the decals before gluing the vertical stabiliser as it makes life easy to position the model, the decals provided are self adhesive for the Tornado as against the water slide ones provided with the Kyosho F-16.
At step # 10 on goes the vertical stabiliser and the model is starting to look like a Tornado.
I will be using a foam block to hold the battery pack in place so step # 11 was ignored, and last part of the assembly is the canopy step # 12 and the model is completed apart from the setting up of the control throws and transmitter.
The Cg is stated as being 110mm from the start of the wing fairing which just happens to coincide with the wind sweep hinge screws so this task should be easy.
A quick power check was performed and with a 1,300mA 3S Hyperion pack the fan was using 205W and sucking 21Amps.
Next tasks are set-up, balance and then will it fly.....??
The Tornado was designed as a low-level supersonic ground attack bomber, capable of taking off and landing in short distances. This requires good high-speed and low-speed flying characteristics. In general, an aircraft which is designed to fly at high speeds usually has poor low-speed characteristics. In order to achieve the desired high-speed performance, an aircraft has a highly swept or ‘delta’ wing platform. However, these wing designs are very inefficient at low speeds where un-swept wing plan-forms are required. In order for an aircraft to be operated efficiently at both high and low speeds, is a desirable feature; this was incorporated into the Tornado design.
When the wings are swept back, the Tornado IDS increases its high-speed low-level capability by reducing drag. When sweeping, the wings partially slide into the fuselage, reducing the exposed wing area. This gives the aircraft a low gust response in turbulent low-level winds. This not only makes flight much more comfortable for the aircrew but also makes the aircraft a more stable platform from which to aim and deliver unguided weapons at low level.
The aircraft was designed to be land-based and operate from large airfields that were considered to be vulnerable to aerial attack. Therefore, during the development of the aircraft, short field landing capability was considered essential in order to enable the aircraft to operate from short strips on potentially damaged runways and taxiways. With the wings swept fully forwards the Tornado IDS generates greater lift because of the increased exposed wing area and the utility of full-span flaps and slats. This gives greater lift at lower speeds, reducing the minimum landing speed required and therefore giving shorter landing distances. Thrust reversers are also fitted to help in this respect, the Saab Viggen being the only other fighter aircraft to include this feature. The reversers contribute to the appearance of soot on the fin surface.
The cockpit is of conventional design with a centre stick and left hand throttles. In general, when the pilot wants to fly at low speed, a cockpit selection lever is used to sweep the wings forward. This maximises lift. When flying faster the wings are swept further back. In flight the Tornado GR4 uses three sweep angles - 25, 45 and 67 degrees, with a corresponding speed range appropriate for each angle. Sweep may also change automatically to accommodate different store configurations, as these directly affect lift and drag characteristics.
The aircraft was first delivered to the RAF in 1979 so the aircraft is a 30 year old plus design..! and still in service.
Performance
Maximum speed: Mach 2.34 (2,417.6 km/h, 1,511 mph)
Range: 1,390 km (870 mi) typical combat
Ferry range: 3,890 km (2,417 mi) with four external drop tanks
Service ceiling: 15,240 m (50,000 ft)
Rate of climb: 76.7 m/s (15,100 ft/min)
Thrust/weight: 0.55
Not bad for an oldie.....!!
I make no apologies but I am a lover of the Tornado and other RAF jets, it is a small model with a span of 27.5” so my first thoughts were to build it as a static model... but as you would expect once I had unboxed the model my thoughts changed to make it fly (even if my aging eyes will not see it).
For those who are not familiar with this aircraft here are a couple of video clips, showing what the aircraft does best .... low level fast flying.
Tornado belting over the North Sea somewhere..?
www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_8unmkdRsc&feature=fvw
Tornado GR4 Low flying
www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbdnLn5-99s&feature=related
Tornado gr4 low level Andrew McEwen
www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBI05oIeiWg&feature=related
Tornado GR4 in action
www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVyggJY3pNA&feature=related
RAF video
www.youtube.com/watch?v=nj0IUkd8fyQ&feature=related
So now it is time to build the model.....
First it is very important with this model to read the instruction book very carefully I say this, as if you build it as per the instructions your receiver will be buried inside the fuselage for life. It also means if you have the wires in the receiver incorrect there will be nothing that you can do about it, and of course if it is a 2.4GHz receiver you will not be able to re-link / bind it either. I tried to fit the Futuba 7 channel 2.4GHz receiver in the correct place and again with the servo cables in place there is just not enough room in the slot provided.
It all seems rather strange as the front of the model has a nice place to locate the receiver, yes you will need some extension leads (3) but at least the receiver can be accessed, so I shall be going for this location and there is plenty of room to move the Li-Po pack towards the rear to get the Cg correct.
With these small problems out of the way it now possible to move along and follow the instructions from Mr. Kyosho..., so going back to step # 1 we need to fit the fan to the motor. As this will be inaccessible once the model is finished you really need to use a 8mm socket driver on the nut to ensure a firm grip of the fan to the motor.
Step # 2, is the “welding” ....? of the ESC battery extension lead
Step # 3, I did not perform as I did not want my 2.4GHz receiver buried inside the model so we can move along to step #4, but now is a good time to fit all the extension leads, I used 300mm leads x 3.
Although the foam moulding is very good the mould release spikes should be removed from the intake ducts, so a gentle rub with fine sandpaper will do the job nicely, the upper duct has been cleaned up and the lower is the original finish.
So now we are ready for step # 4, a nice easy job of gluing the stabs to the fuselage, make sure they fit tight to the fuselage, they should angle downwards as well.
Step # 5, is where the fun begins, you will need to enlarge the cable slot so that it will take the three servo wires as well as the three motor wires
And the real tricky part comes next which is fitting the fan assembly to the top fuselage, time is required to ensure this fits without any force or stress, especially as it is difficult to get the wires from the motor and servo’s in that small groove. After a couple of dry runs everything was set up OK and it was time to make the join permanent, I would suggest that you use 30 minute Epoxy as it gives you more time to ensure everything is as it should be and fits nicely. Note the ESC sits in the cable slot and is retained by double sided tape.
Step # 6, a nice task gluing the rest of the fuselage bottom in place, again use 30 minutes Epoxy and test fit to ensure all is fine before gluing. Once the main part is glued in place the small blanking plug can be fitted which gives a cheater hole to the fan on each side of the fuselage.
Step # 7, time to fit the wings it all looks so simple from the instruction book, but required some thought as to how to find the hinge hole in the wing once it is inserted in the fuselage slot. After playing hunt the hole for a period of time I reverted to the obvious solution, lay the other wing on top of the one that is being installed with a small screwdriver through the hinge hole, now move the fitted wing to the same position as the top wing and bingo the screwdriver pops straight through. Remove the top wing and the screwdriver and insert the screw and the job is done for the first side. For the other side insert the wing and set location in / out and back and forward as the fitted wing and the hole will be there.
With the two wings fitted we need to locate the sweep back holes, using the same method as before but this time a pin drill, put the pin drill in the sweep hole and move the wing slowly until the drill drops. Mark the wing with a fine marker pen at the fuselage position so you can re-find it without using the pin drill again, and repeat this for all three holes in both wings.
The next picture shows one wing at full sweep back and the other in the slow flight position (OK I know that is my setting....!)
Steps # 8 and 9 are normal servo horn fitting and set up, so now is the time to check all is well and the control surfaces are moving in the correct directions for the stick movements, it should now be very apparent why I did not want to bury the receiver as if it cables are in the wrong channels you are stuck and remember the transmitter wing type is delta or flying wing so you can get things wrong (well I always seem to manage this).
I decided to fit the decals before gluing the vertical stabiliser as it makes life easy to position the model, the decals provided are self adhesive for the Tornado as against the water slide ones provided with the Kyosho F-16.
At step # 10 on goes the vertical stabiliser and the model is starting to look like a Tornado.
I will be using a foam block to hold the battery pack in place so step # 11 was ignored, and last part of the assembly is the canopy step # 12 and the model is completed apart from the setting up of the control throws and transmitter.
The Cg is stated as being 110mm from the start of the wing fairing which just happens to coincide with the wind sweep hinge screws so this task should be easy.
A quick power check was performed and with a 1,300mA 3S Hyperion pack the fan was using 205W and sucking 21Amps.
Next tasks are set-up, balance and then will it fly.....??